11 P.M. Nokdujeon

At 11 last night, my husband and I decided we needed nokdujeon.

Nokdujeon is a Korean savory pancake made with ground mung beans, usually mixed with things like pork, vegetables or kimchi. This batch came from my mother-in-law, so the exact recipe remains a mystery to me — but I do know there was plenty of finely chopped, properly sour kimchi in it, which made it impossibly savory.

The important part is how you cook it: plenty of oil, and enough patience to let the edges get deeply crisp while the middle stays soft and moist.

My husband is annoyingly good at frying anything, so naturally he was in charge of the pan.

We ate one straight away.

Then made another.

That part can stay between us.